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The Most Science-Backed Skincare Routine | Aanchal Panth | AFP 55

The following is based on a conversation with Aanchal Panth, a dermatologist at Dermafolix.

How Do Chemical and Physical Exfoliants Differ in Their Mechanism and Safety?

Physical exfoliants rely on abrasive, gritty particles to manually scrub away surface skin cells. Because particle size and manual pressure are difficult to standardize, physical scrubs often cause surface micro-tears, skin irritation, and redness. Chemical exfoliants—such as glycolic, salicylic, mandelic, or lactic acids—dissolve the intercellular bonds between skin cells. This process enables uniform, predictable cell shedding with reduced mechanical trauma to the skin barrier.

What Is the Biological Mechanism Behind Red Light Therapy for Collagen Synthesis?

Red light therapy utilizes specific wavelengths of light to induce photobiomodulation within targeted dermal layers. When delivered at proper fluences without excessive heat, light energy penetrates the tissue and stimulates mitochondrial activity to produce higher levels of adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Elevated ATP levels activate dermal fibroblasts, the primary cells responsible for synthesizing structural collagen, thereby improving skin density and fine static lines.

Why Does Intrinsic Aging Differ Between Caucasian and South Asian Skin Types?

Differences in intrinsic aging between Caucasian and South Asian skin types are largely dictated by baseline melanin density and structural differences in the skin. Light Caucasian skin contains lower levels of melanin, leaving it more vulnerable to ultraviolet radiation that induces DNA damage, skin cancer, and static wrinkles. South Asian skin features higher baseline melanin, offering greater intrinsic protection against photo-induced wrinkling and skin cancer. However, this elevated melanin response makes South Asian skin more prone to pigmentary alterations, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and facial sagging.

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Cleaned Transcript

Jeroen Schreel: Welcome to Apple Finch Pudding, your gateway into the realm of science. Today’s scientist is Dr. Aanchal Panth, a dermatologist at DermaPurity. Welcome, Anchal.

Aanchal Panth: I’m glad to be here.

Jeroen Schreel: Millions of people watch short-form content looking for a five-step routine to look younger and have perfect skin. What is the single biggest scam or product that is doing more harm than good that millions of people are using right now?

Aanchal Panth: I would say there are two. One is physical scrubs. A lot of people feel that scrubbing their face with gritty particles will clean their skin or remove dead skin cells. Men especially enjoy using these scrubs, which tend to cause micro-tears on the surface of the skin, making it more irritable and prone to redness. That is one product I think should absolutely not exist.

The second product category is toners. Toners are marketed as a must-have step in your skincare routine, but most contain ingredients that are not necessary. While skincare formulations have evolved to make toners gentler with lower alcohol content than in the past, these fancy toners remain an unnecessary step that you can completely skip.

Jeroen Schreel: That is surprising to me. Everyone hears that you need to scrub your skin to remove dead skin cells. Why is that not good?

Aanchal Panth: To remove dead skin cells, it is always better to opt for a chemical exfoliator. Chemical exfoliants form gaps between your skin cells, causing them to shed evenly over time. You can use products containing glycolic acid, salicylic acid, mandelic acid, or azelaic acid. These gentle acids exfoliate the skin uniformly and predictably compared to physical scrubs.

The problem with physical scrubs is that their efficacy depends on applied pressure and particle size, which cannot be optimized. When done incorrectly, physical scrubbing leads to skin irritation. While exfoliation itself is beneficial, always choose chemical exfoliation over physical exfoliation.

Jeroen Schreel: Regarding toners, what were they originally supposed to do, and why are they obsolete now?

Aanchal Panth: Toners were introduced years ago to remove the alkaline residue left on the skin after using traditional soaps. Traditional soaps stripped natural oils and raised the skin’s pH. Toners were formulated with alcohol to restore the skin’s natural acidic pH mantle, which protects the skin’s microflora.

Modern cleansers are pH-balanced, leaving no residue and maintaining the skin’s acidic environment. Consequently, the necessity for toners is overemphasized today. Marketing gimmicks keep consumers engaged and spending money on unnecessary steps. Brands market toners as essential for product penetration, which is incorrect.

Jeroen Schreel: With so many products available, what guidelines should people follow to pick the right routine?

Aanchal Panth: First, you must identify your skin type: normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive. Understanding your skin type and its specific requirements is essential.

Next, focus on the core basics for your morning and night routines. All you need to start are three core products: a cleanser, a moisturizer, and a sunscreen. Once these pillars are established, you can add targeted serums or corrective creams.

  • Cleanser: Oily or combination skin benefits from a slightly foaming cleanser containing salicylic acid, lactic acid, or mandelic acid. Normal to dry skin types should use a gentle, non-foaming cleanser.
  • Moisturizer: Look for barrier-repair ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, zinc PCA, and panthenol. Oily or combination skin requires a gel-based moisturizer, while normal to dry skin benefits from a creamy consistency.
  • Sunscreen: Choose a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and a PA rating of PA+++ or more. Oily or combination skin types should use gel formulations, whereas dry or normal skin types should use lotions or creams. If you sweat heavily or engage in water activities, choose a water-resistant option.

Addressing these basic parameters covers 90% of your skincare needs.

Jeroen Schreel: Is daily sunscreen necessary even when it is not sunny, and is sunlight truly that damaging?

Aanchal Panth: A dermatologist’s perspective on sun exposure differs from that of a general physician due to the conditions we treat daily.

For lighter Caucasian skin tones, regular sunscreen use is mandatory to reduce the risk of skin cancer and severe wrinkling. For deeper South Asian skin tones rich in melanin, the incidence of skin cancer from UV light is significantly lower. Instead, aging presents as skin sagging, uneven skin tone, dark spots, and melasma. Sunscreen usage in South Asian skin prevents dullness, premature aging, and hyperpigmentation.

If you are outdoors regularly, reapplication every two to three hours is required regardless of skin tone.

Jeroen Schreel: What specific spectrums of light cause damage?

Aanchal Panth: Both UVA and UVB rays damage the skin. UVA rays drive premature photoaging, while UVB rays cause sunburns. Additionally, visible blue light impacts melanin-rich South Asian skin by exacerbating hyperpigmentation and melasma. Tinted sunscreens help block visible blue light.

Jeroen Schreel: What about clinical UV light therapy? How does that work if UV rays are harmful?

Aanchal Panth: In dermatology, we use narrowband UVB therapy at precise wavelengths to calm cutaneous inflammation. It treats conditions like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, widespread eczema, and prurigo nodularis.

Unlike broad-spectrum sunlight, clinical narrowband UVB radiation is standardized, targeted, and delivered in controlled 10- to 15-minute intervals. Uncontrolled sunlight exposure cannot replicate clinical phototherapy.

Jeroen Schreel: What is your assessment of at-home LED red light masks?

Aanchal Panth: Red light therapy is supported by robust research. Initially utilized for wound healing and space medicine by NASA, red light therapy promotes collagen synthesis via photobiomodulation.

When delivered at specific wavelengths and fluences, red light penetrates the skin to increase mitochondrial ATP production. This activates dermal fibroblasts to synthesize new collagen. However, devices must be tested, well-researched, and calibrated to avoid emitting excess heat, which can exacerbate melasma in deeper skin tones.

Jeroen Schreel: Should everyone consider using a verified red light mask?

Aanchal Panth: Yes, provided you have disposable income and time. Consistent use—roughly 10 to 15 minutes, three to four times a week—yields visible improvements in skin radiance, texture, and suppleness within one to six months.

Red light therapy improves fine static lines, which are visible when the face is at rest. It does not alter dynamic wrinkles caused by underlying muscle movement, such as smile lines or forehead movement.

Jeroen Schreel: What are your views on botulinum toxin (Botox) injections?

Aanchal Panth: I support Botox when administered judiciously. I do not recommend preventive Botox, “micro-Botox,” or starting treatments in your 20s. Most individuals do not require botulinum toxin before their late 30s or 40s.

The goal should be softening excessive muscle action rather than freezing expressions. Overusing toxin injections creates an unnatural appearance and removes expressive authenticity, such as natural smile lines.

Jeroen Schreel: Beyond topical products, what lifestyle habits most directly impact skin health?

Aanchal Panth: Sleep, nutrition, and physical exercise are fundamental. The skin reflects internal physiological health. Inadequate sleep increases circulating stress hormones and reduces growth hormone secretion, leading to facial edema, dark circles, and compromised collagen maintenance.

For nutrition, maintaining adequate protein intake is essential. Many South Asian diets are carbohydrate-dense and low in quality protein, contributing to hair thinning and dull skin.

Regarding exercise, strength training directly stimulates collagen maintenance and can be started at any age.

Jeroen Schreel: What dietary choices should people adjust for optimal skin quality?

Aanchal Panth: Increase daily protein consumption, eat fresh fruits, start meals with raw salads, and include healthy fats and nuts. Dietary fats are necessary for absorbing fat-soluble vitamins.

Reduce consumption of highly processed foods, excess refined sugars, and high-sodium items like commercial pickles. Excess sodium promotes fluid retention, leading to facial puffiness and under-eye bags.

Jeroen Schreel: Do oral collagen supplements work?

Aanchal Panth: While recent meta-analyses indicate that hydrolysed marine collagen supplements offer slight hydration benefits, I do not consider them essential. The modest improvements shown in clinical trials can be achieved through adequate dietary protein intake and basic skincare. While not harmful, collagen supplements are an optional luxury rather than a physiological necessity.

Jeroen Schreel: What is your stance on general health supplements for skin care?

Aanchal Panth: I do not recommend indefinite blanket supplementation. Supplements should address diagnosed deficiencies following blood tests for iron, vitamin B12, vitamin D, thyroid function, and hemoglobin.

  • Biotin: Biotin supplements or gummies are largely unnecessary because true biotin deficiency is rare. High doses of biotin can interfere with laboratory immunoassay readings, leading to false-negative troponin results during cardiac emergencies.
  • Glutathione: Oral glutathione supplements are overdone and unnecessary for daily use.
  • Useful Supplements: Standardized omega-3 fatty acids, targeted vitamin D3 for documented deficiencies, and magnesium can be beneficial when taken appropriately.

Jeroen Schreel: How does sleep quality specifically affect cutaneous repair?

Aanchal Panth: Deep sleep triggers the release of growth hormone, which facilitates tissue repair and mitigates oxidative stress and collagen breakdown.

To optimize sleep hygiene:

  • Avoid caffeine after 2:00 PM.
  • Finish heavy meals three to four hours before bed.
  • Limit alcohol intake.
  • Dim ambient lighting two to three hours before sleeping.
  • Avoid screens and work activities in bed.

Jeroen Schreel: How should someone start an exercise routine if they are short on time?

Aanchal Panth: Start small with 15- to 20-minute home workouts using simple dumbbells. Removing the friction of traveling to a commercial gym helps establish consistency. Once you experience the mental and physical benefits, extending workout duration becomes easier.

Jeroen Schreel: Why do we need skincare routines if human ancestors survived without them?

Aanchal Panth: Modern environments present higher levels of pollution, psychological stress, and dietary changes than our ancestors faced. Furthermore, contemporary life expectancies and aesthetic preferences mean people want to preserve functional skin health and appearance longer.

Jeroen Schreel: What skincare routine do you recommend for men?

Aanchal Panth: Men should keep their routine simple.

  • Morning: Cleanser followed by sunscreen.
  • Evening: Cleanser followed by moisturizer.

After maintaining this basic routine for a month, you can introduce a targeted serum—such as niacinamide, vitamin C, azelaic acid, or retinol—based on your goals.

Biologically, male skin is thicker, oilier, and has higher density of facial hair, which naturally slows visible photoaging. However, men should avoid overly harsh, heavily fragranced cleansers that strip essential epidermal lipids.

Jeroen Schreel: How do you define a serum, and how should someone select one?

Aanchal Panth: A serum is a lightweight liquid formulation designed with minimal emulsifiers or thickeners, allowing for a higher concentration of active ingredients.

  • Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Salicylic acid, niacinamide, or azelaic acid.
  • Dry or Compromised Barrier: Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or centella asiatica.
  • Fine Lines and Aging: Retinol or signal peptides.
  • Hyperpigmentation: Vitamin C, alpha-arbutin, or kojic acid.

Jeroen Schreel: Do anti-aging creams reverse aging?

Aanchal Panth: No product reverses aging. Anti-aging formulations merely slow structural degradation and support resilience. Effective formulations rely on proven functional ingredients:

  1. Retinoids: Increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen synthesis (recommended after age 25).
  1. Peptides: Signal dermal collagen production and support hydration.
  1. Antioxidants (e.g., Vitamin C): Neutralize free radicals and limit UV-induced damage.
  1. Barrier Repair Agents (e.g., Ceramides): Prevent transepidermal water loss.

Jeroen Schreel: What is your opinion on microcurrent devices, dermarollers, and snail mucin?

  • Microcurrent Devices: Unnecessary. They offer temporary lymphatic drainage for morning puffiness but lack robust data showing long-term structural collagen remodeling.
  • At-Home Dermarollers: Absolutely not. Mechanical rolling wheel devices can create uneven micro-tears in the skin and introduce bacterial infections. Clinical microneedling uses motorized vertical pen devices under sterile conditions to induce controlled wound-healing responses safely.
  • Snail Mucin: Recommended. Originally studied for chronic wound recovery and trophic ulcers, snail mucin contains a mix of glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid), anti-inflammatory trace elements, and soothing peptides. While not suitable for everyone, it helps calm irritation and repair the skin barrier.

Jeroen Schreel: What does your personal skincare routine look like?

Aanchal Panth:

  • Morning: Wash with a gentle cleanser (or plain water if dry), apply an antioxidant pigment-correcting serum, apply SPF 50 sunscreen, and finish with a light skin tint.
  • Evening: Gentle cleanser, followed by a topical retinoid three nights a week. On alternate nights, I use a targeted hyperpigmentation treatment. I finish with a rich barrier moisturizer, a retinoid eye cream, and lip balm.

When treating patients, I avoid excessive product layering. Stacking multiple serums dilutes active concentrations and increases the risk of barrier irritation. Focus on a maximum of two primary skin concerns at a time, cycling active products on alternate nights.

Jeroen Schreel: Do you have a final message for our listeners?

Aanchal Panth: Ignore short-term social media trends. Understand your skin type, choose budget-appropriate products, apply sunscreen daily, and keep your routine simple. Skincare should be a manageable act of self-care rather than a complex chore.

Jeroen Schreel: Thank you, Aanchal Panth, for sharing your expertise on Apple Finch Pudding.

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